Come along with us today as we go leaf peeping to see the fall colors of the Aspens in Colorado. Since fall is usually a time of mild temperatures and cool nights, and as the days get shorter, it is a spectacular time to see the Aspen trees turn a golden hue, especially in the Gunnison and Crested Butte area.
Most of Colorado’s aspens turn a golden hue, but there are also red and orange shades. The best time to see fall colors in the Gunnison Valley is usually late September to mid-October. And as we witnessed, it was just the perfect time to see the hills truly come alive with awesome and brilliant fall colors!
We left the Griffin ranch in Matheson, Colorado around 6:30 a.m. and headed to Falcon to pick up our friends, Sam and Nancy Testa. After that, we headed toward Monument, Colorado where we would begin today's journey by following our trails book (shown above) along the Mount Herman and Rampart Range Road.
Just before 8:00 a.m. we had arrived in Monument, Colorado, a town that is situated at the base of the Rampart Range in El Paso County, Colorado. Monument is one of the three communities that make up the Tri-Lakes area, along with Palmer Lake and Woodmoor. Monument is bordered by Pike National Forest on the west, Colorado Springs and the United States Air Force Academy to the south, Bald Mountain, True Mountain, and Spruce Mountain to the north, and Black Forest and rolling plains to the east.
Monument was first settled as a stop along the Rio Grande Railroad in 1872, and the area was incorporated as a town called Henry's Station in 1879, but the name was later changed to Monument. The town population was 10,399 in the 2020 Census.
Monument's first homesteaders arrived in 1865 to mark out the town's preliminary shape, but settlement increased when Monument became a stop along the Rio Grande Railroad in 1872. The area was incorporated as a town called Henry's Station, after prominent settler Henry Limbach, on June 2, 1879, and the first town meeting was held July 3, 1879. However, three years later the name was changed to Monument after Monument Creek and Monument Rock in the west.
We passed into Pike National Forest. The Pike National Forest is located in the Front Range of Colorado, west of Colorado Springs including Pikes Peak. The forest encompasses 1,106,604 acres within Clear Creek, Teller, Park, Jefferson, Douglas and El Paso counties. The major rivers draining the forest are the South Platte and Fountain Creek. Rampart Reservoir is a large artificial body of water located within the forest.
The forest is named after American explorer Zebulon Pike. Much of the bedrock within Pike National Forest is made up of the coarse, pink to orange Pikes Peak granite.
From Monument, we headed south until we turned right on Mount Herman Road. Thereafter, we followed FS 320.
For about the first 10 miles, the road was bad at all, just gravel and a little dusty.
The scenery was fantastic.
When the road became a little more rocky, Mel decided to pull over and air down the jeep tires.
Sam and I both got out of the jeep to take pictures (in the picture above I am taking a picture of Sam while he is taking a picture of me taking a picture of him).
We continued along Mount Herman Road.
Shown below is our first glimpse at the beautiful gold of the Aspens.
The Mount Herman Road conditions are unpredictable depending on what maintenance has been done. It can be steep and narrow, with occasional ruts in some areas. The road climbs up and around Mount Herman to Rampart Range Road. There are spectacular views of Pikes Peak to the south. The lower part of the trail has a somewhat exposed edge on the left/south side that eases as the road enters into the trees. Huge granite boulders stand guard next to the road with reinforcements hiding in the trees and hillsides.
At this point, we turned left onto Rampart Range Road 300 and followed this for the next 10 miles.
There were beautiful golden yellow Aspens all along Rampart Range Road.
Rampart Range Road was built during the Great Depression of the 1930s by the Civil Conservation Corps. There are absolutely no services along Rampart Range Road, and very few "exits" along the way. The drive yields spectacular views of Pikes Peak, the prairie, and the rugged Front Range and Tarryall Mountains. Also known as Forest Service Road 300, it stretches out for 38.4 miles.
We see a beautiful meadow and several views of Pikes Peak along Rampart Range Road.
We have just seen the sign for the Ramport Reservior Recreation area.
We turn left on the paved road to go down to the Rampart Reservior.
The gate across the Rampart Reservior was closed, but there was a guard there to open it for us.
We were not allowed to stop to take pictures on the dam so these are some pictures I took out my window as Mel drove along the length of the dam.
Soon we arrived where we could park and get out to take a look at the Rampart Reservior.
Rampart Reservoir is a reservoir 12 miles northwest of the city of Colorado Springs in the Pike National Forest. The reservoir supplies the domestic drinking water for the city of Colorado Springs and serves as a recreation area for boaters, mountain bikers, and hikers. The reservoir has been stocked with fish by Colorado Parks and Wildlife.
The reservoir's construction began in the 1960s in response to the growing population of south-central Colorado and its increasing need for drinking water. The city of Colorado Springs voted in 1967 that the reservoir should be opened for public recreation after necessary facilities were built. The reservoir's earthen dam is 3,400 feet long and 230 feet high and was completed in 1970. The dam impounds West Monument Creek.
And again when we crossed back over the dam, the guard opened the gate for us.
After we left the reservior, we got back on Rampart Range Road.
Along the way we could see lots of what remained from the Waldo Canyon Fire in 2012. The Waldo Canyon fire was a forest fire that started approximately 4 miles northwest of Colorado Springs on June 23, 2012, and was declared 100 percent contained on July 10, 2012, after no smoke plumes were visible on a small portion of the containment line on Blodgett Peak.
The fire was active in the Pike National Forest and adjoining areas, covering a total of 18,247 acres. The fire had caused the evacuation of over 32,000 residents of Colorado Springs, Manitou Springs and Woodland Park, several small mountain communities along the southwestern side of U.S. Highway 24, and partial evacuation of the United States Air Force Academy. There were 346 homes destroyed by the fire. U.S. Highway 24, a major east–west road, was closed in both directions.
The Waldo Canyon Fire resulted in insurance claims totaling more than US $453.7 million. It was the most destructive fire in Colorado state history, as measured by the number of homes destroyed, until the Black Forest Fire surpassed it almost a year later when it consumed 486 homes and damaged 28 others.
The Waldo Canyon fire was first spotted noon on June 23, 2012 in a valley of Rampart Range in the Pike National Forest, about 3 miles west of Colorado Springs and north of U.S. Highway 24, the major east-west highway from Colorado Springs. It likely started in the afternoon of June 22, 2012 when a report of the smell of smoke in the area was received by local agencies. Firefighters from the Pike National Forest as well as local agencies responded immediately but were unable to locate the source in very steep terrain before nightfall.
The ground search resumed in early morning the following day. The initial smoke column was first spotted and caught on video by cyclists on the range, as the fire began to spread quickly, soon reaching one of the ridges. Air support was requested at 12:24 p.m. by the Colorado Springs Fire Department. Helicopters began dropping water on the fire within hours. Erratic winds caused the fire to spread rapidly in the northwest and south directions.
By 3 p.m., the fire grew to 600 acres spreading towards the towns of Chipita Park, Green Mountain Falls, and Cascade, Colorado.It also spread towards the western and northwestern areas of the Colorado Springs area and Manitou Springs. Residents began to evacuate as the fire intensified. Planes dropped retardant slurry on what they believed was the Pyramid Mountain Fire, which was a less than 20 acre fire in the same area the night before. As the fire intensified, flames seemed to reach 150 feet above the treetops.
We decided to stop at the Promontory Picnic Area located in the Rampart Reservoir Recreation Area to eat our lunch that we had brought along with us.
There were several picnic tables scattered about among the rocks and gorgeous scenery.
We found the perfect spot, and ate our lunch. Shown above is Sam and Nancy eating theirs, while below is Mel and I joining them.
After lunch, Mel decides to climb up a big rock and find a spot to do some thinking (see above and below).
What a marvelous view!
After lunch, we walked around the pinic area a little bit.
We then drove through Thunder Ridge Campground. It truly is a shame how much damage and destruction the Waldo Canyon Fire caused.
Our next stop was at the observation deck area.
I quickly got out of the jeep to go explore and take some pictures. Clearly, this area was constructed a long time ago, and hasn’t been maintained for a while now. The handrails were slowly falling apart, and made me a little nervous when I was taking pictures (see below).
But boy, the spectacular views were definitely worth it! We could clearly see Pikes Peak and some of the areas that were burnt by the Waldo Canyon Fire.
Once everyone was back in the jeep, we continued on.
Soon we found other areas of devastion from the Waldo Canyon Fire.
We continued on for another 10 miles or so.
We have been so fortunate to see all the brilliant hues of gold and yellow in the Aspen trees along the road today.
We're now getting closer to the Garden of Gods area.
This section of Rampart Range Road was nicely maintained and provided amazing scenery as we dropped into the Garden of the Gods Park. The route was made up of forestry service roads and shelf roads as we came down into Garden of the Gods.
The above sign is the "Welcome to the Garden of the Gods."
The southern end of Rampart Range Road is located near the southwestern entrance to the Garden of the Gods. Two rock formations — Steamboat Rock and Balanced Rock — tower over the entryway to this side of the park. The road splits, with one-way traffic squeezing through on either side of Steamboat Rock.
Steamboat Rock (on the right) is a rock formation in the Garden of the Gods in Colorado Springs, Colorado. It is easily accessible by paved road and is a popular spot for tourist photography.
The rock was once privately owned, and tourists climbed upon the rock for photographs of it and nearby Balanced Rock. Climbing upon the rock is now prohibited. The stairs leading up the spine of the formation are still visible (see above).
Balanced Rock (shown above on the left) is practically begging you to take its picture minutes from both Manitou Springs and Colorado Springs, this 35-foot, 1.4-million-pound red rock is free to visit, photograph, and appreciate. Located near the southern entrance of the Garden of the Gods, Balanced Rock is an enormous, roadside sandstone boulder, which is frankly a natural piece of art.
With one look at the formation, it is very easy to see why this tourist attraction has been deemed “Balanced” Rock. The 700-ton spectacle juts out from a small base area and appears to be balancing above its surroundings. Faintly layered with different reddish hues, Balanced Rock is made up of hematite, coarse sand, silica, and gravel.
Continuing on, we decided to venture out on Old Stage Road and possibly take it all the way to Cripple Creek.
The Kissing Camels (see above and below) is an iconic rock formation that’s a must-see during your Garden of the Gods visit in Colorado Springs. The Kissing Camels are part of the huge red rock formation in the Perkins Central Garden, on the north end of the Garden of the Gods park near the main parking lot.
As the name implies, this naturally made rock formation really does resemble two camels kissing. An opening in the ridge line of this marvelous red rock structure creates creating two clearly visible “camel heads” that are kissing. Unlike some oddly named rock structures, the Kissing Camels are super easy to spot—even kids are able to find them. For years, the camels have been clearly visible. Some say it’s the longest kiss on record!
(Upclose view of the kissing camels.)
White Rock Castle rock formation just outside of Garden of the Gods. I'm not sure what its official name is though.
We drove by the Rock Ledge Ranch Historic Site. Maybe we will stop next time. Anyway, it is a living history museum and farm located at Garden of the Gods in Colorado Springs, Colorado. Staff and volunteers dressed in period-appropriate attire interpret life in the Pikes Peak region from 1775 through 1910. Rock Ledge Ranch is home to six historic sites: an American Indian Area interpreting indigenous life from 1775 through 1835; an 1860s homestead cabin; an 1880s homestead garden; the 1874 Rock Ledge House; an 1890s blacksmith shop; and a 1907 Edwardian Country Estate.
Museum guides, each wearing clothing specific to the time period and type of residence, explain and demonstrate activities of daily life of those who lived in the region. Visitors see and participate to learn how people from different time periods lived during the eras: clothing, meal prep and cooking, cleaning, laundry, mowing, games and entertainment, and how they made their living.
There is a working 19th Century blacksmith shop, barn, horses, and chickens. Sheep and a cow graze around the farm. At one time, peacocks were resident. The historical interpreters demonstrate daily living skills, and encourage visitors to participate. The museum hosts over 100,000 people on an annual basis.
We stopped at the Garden of the Gods Visitor Center.
From the Visitor Center, we could also see the kissing camels.
After we left the Garden of the Gods Visitor Center, we turned right onto Old Stage Road.
Old Stage Road is a maintained, one and two lane sand road. There are steep cliffs, no guard rails, and washboard areas throughout. It is suitable for all four and two wheel drive vehicles. It starts in Colorado Springs and ends at Shelf Road, which goes to either Victor Colorado, or Cripple Creek Colorado.
Old Stage Road winds around The Almagre Mountain, and is the 2nd highest peak on the Colorado Springs skyline, and is the only one other than Pikes that rises above treeline.Some people refer to Almagre as "Mount Baldy". In fact, Baldy is a sub-summit of Almagre. Almost all of this road has a steep drop off on one side of the road or the other, and no guard rails. There are several areas of the road that were constructed by blasting through outcroppings of the mountian, which left high walls on either side of the road, and in one place a actual tunnel was constructed, which has massive wooden doors on either side which can be closed.
The yellow caution sign reminds of the narrow winding road for the next 9.2 miles.
Once again the skyline views of Colorado Springs are breathtaking.
Another plus for us is that the road winds through some golden Aspen tree groves.
And there are some tight rocky ledge areas.
The road was rough and washboardy in several areas.
And sometimes it was a tight squeeze between both sides of the rocky ledges.
And then we came upon this tunnel.
And we saw lots of more beautiful golden Aspen trees.
Soon, we could see Cripple Creek.
Welcome to Cripple Creek, a city that is the county seat of Teller County, Colorado with a population of 1,155. Cripple Creek is a former gold mining camp located 20 miles southwest of Colorado Springs near the base of Pikes Peak. The Cripple Creek Historic District, which received National Historic Landmark status in 1961, includes part or all of the city and the surrounding area.
For many years, Cripple Creek's high valley, at an elevation of 9,494 feet was considered no more important than a cattle pasture. Many prospectors avoided the area after the Mount Pisgah hoax, a mini gold rush caused by salting (adding gold to worthless rock).
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HISTORY OF CRIPPLE CREEK
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On October 20, 1890, Robert Miller "Bob" Womack discovered a rich ore and the last great Colorado gold rush began. By July 1891, a post office was established. By November, hundreds of prospectors were camping in the area. Rather than investing in mines, Denver realtors Horace Bennett and Julius Myers sought wealth by platting 80 acres of land for a townsite which they named Fremont. The town consisted of 30 platted blocks containing 766 lots. Each lot sold for $25 and $50 for corner lots. Within a year, the lots value increased and sold for at least $250 each. Months later, investors from Colorado Springs platted 140 acres near Fremont and called their town Hayden Placer.
Bennett and Myers filed another plat near the Broken Box Ranch and named it Cripple Creek. The towns’ combined population totalled 600-800 people by the end of 1891. By 1892, the Cripple Creek Mining District name had caught on and in June 1892, the post office assigned the Cripple Creek name to Fremont, Hayden Placer, and Cripple Creek and all the settlements became known as one. From 1892, Bennett and Myers oversaw the Fremont Electric Light and Power Company.
The district’s first telephone was established in 1893. Thousands of prospectors flocked to the district, and before long Winfield Scott Stratton located the famous Independence lode, one of the largest gold strikes in history. In three years, the population increased from five hundred to ten thousand. The Palace Hotel and the Windsor Hotel were so full that chairs were rented out to be slept on for $1 a night. Although $500 million worth of gold ore was dug from Cripple Creek and more than 30 millionaires were produced since its mining heyday, Womack was not among them. Having sold his claim for $500 and a case of whiskey, he died penniless on August 10, 1909.
By 1892, Cripple Creek was home to 5,000 people with another 5,000 in the nearby towns of Victor, Elton, Goldfield, Independence, Alton, and Strong. As people arrived, the marshal greeted them and confiscated their firearms, which were then sold in Denver to pay for the salary of the teachers of Cripple Creek.
In 1896, Cripple Creek suffered two disastrous fires. The first occurred on April 25 with flames resulting from a dispute between a bartender, Otto Floto, and his dancehall girlfriend, Jennie LaRue, on the second floor of the Central Dance Hall on Myers Avenue. Their struggle resulted in an oil lamp being thrown setting fire to the curtains. The fire incinerated most buildings on Myers Avenue before it was put out. Four days later, another fire destroyed much of the remaining half. A cook at the Portland Hotel spilled a kettle of grease on a hot stove, which caused fire to travel from Myers to Bennet Avenue and burned 1/3 of Cripple Creek. The town was rebuilt using brick and better construction methods in a period of a few months; most historic buildings today date back to 1896.
By 1900, the Cripple Creek mining district was home to 500 mines. By 1910, it had produced 22.4 million ounces of gold. Between 1894 and 1902, around 50,000 people lived in the mining district with 35,000 in the town of Cripple Creek alone making it the fourth most populous town in Colorado at the time. The seven adjoining boom towns includes Victor, Gillette, Alban, Independence, Goldfield, Elton, and Cameron—all of which were connected by rail. During the boom, there were 150 saloons, 49 grocery stores, 25 restaurants, four department stores, 12 casinos, 34 churches, a business college, a county school district with 19 schools and 118 teachers educating almost 4,000 students, 90 doctors, 40 stockbrokers, 15 newspapers, 9 assay offices, 10 barber shops, 72 lawyers, 20 houses of ill-repute, over 300 prostitutes, 26 one room cribs, and several opium dens.
Prostitution flourished until the 1920s and was taxed at a rate of $6 a month per prostitute and $16 a month per madame. Pearl De Vere, a famous madame who owned The Old Homestead, a high class brothel that serviced wealthy mine owners and entrepreneurs of the area, was known to have charged clients in the upwards of $250 a night. Over 8,000 miners worked in the district making $3 per day. Most miners and foremen supplemented their incomes by as much as 1/3 through high grading. It was estimated that an average of $1–2 million dollars per year were stolen from the early mines through high grading.
While $3 a day was typical for a miner, some miners had to work 8 hours a day while others had to work 9 or 10 hours. The average miners paid $1.75 per week for an unfurnished house or $2.50 per week to boarding houses that included a room, bath, and meals. During the 1890s, many of the miners in the Cripple Creek area joined a miners' union, the Western Federation of Miners (WFM). A significant strike took place in 1894, marking one of the few times in history that a sitting governor called out the national guard to protect miners from anti-union violence by forces under the control of the mine owners. By 1903, the allegiance of the state government had shifted, and Governor James Peabody sent the Colorado National Guard into Cripple Creek with the goal of destroying union power in the gold camps. The WFM strike of 1903 and the governor's response precipitated the Colorado Labor Wars, a struggle that took many lives.
With many empty storefronts and picturesque homes, Cripple Creek once drew interest as a ghost town. At one point, the population dropped to a few hundred, although Cripple Creek was never entirely deserted. In the 1970s and 1980s, travelers on photo safari might find themselves in a beautiful decaying historic town. A few restaurants and bars catered to tourists, who could pass weathered empty homes with lace curtains hanging in broken windows.
We love Cripple Creek. It is such a cute little town with several casinos.
We walked around the town for awhile.
Of course, we stopped in Johnny Nolans Casino -- which used to be one of our favorite casinos to gamble a little bit at.
When we had seen enough, we left to head back to Sam and Nancy's house for dinner.
We saw many beautiful brilliantly golden Aspens all the way home.
We got to Sam and Nancy's house around 5:30 p.m. Nancy fixed us a lovely dinner of BBQ beef sandwiches, potato chips, mixed salad, and ice cream and brownies for dessert. Yummy!
Shortly afterwards we had to leave as we had to make a stop at Walmart for a few groceries and to pick up a prescription. It was a long day, but very rewarding. Good times with good friends for sure. I'm sure we envision all the magnificient golden Aspen trees we saw today for many years to come!
Shirley & Mel
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