This morning we were up and rolling down the road on Alaska Hwy 7 North at 7:50 a.m. with sunny skies and already 48 degrees. It was a beautiful spring day and temperatures reached 65 degrees. We had a little over 200 miles to travel today including the Canadian border crossing, and we had several short stops planned for on the way.
As we made our way toward the Canadian border, some 40 miles from Haines, we once again enjoyed the beautiful scenery.
We passed the Alaska Chilkat Bald Eagle Preserve on our way.
We passed Klukwan, a small ancient Alaska Native village positioned on the banks of the Chilkat River, located 22 miles north of Haines. The name Klukwan is taken fromt he Tlingit phrase "Tlakw Aan" which literally means "Eternal Village." Local history tells us that Klukwan was originally settled many years ago by a group of Gaanaxteidi (Raven Clan) men and their Kaagwaantaan (Eagle Clan) wives. The village site was chosen because of the rich natural environment and the Chilkat Tlingits still preserve and live their heritage through their Tlingit language, rituals, stories, oral histories, and subsistence activities.
At 9:45 a.m., we drove past the US Customs side of the border and proceeded on to the Canadian border crossing just 600 meters ahead.
The border crossing was easy again with just the standard routine questions. We once again had to turn our clocks forward an hour -- therefore losing an hour due to the time change. We were now traveling on the Alaska Highway (Yukon Hwy 3 North).
We crossed briefly between the Yukon Territory and British Columbia, Canada, before leaving British Columbia and going back into the Yukon.
Million Dollar Falls
Million Dollar Falls has a carefully crafted boardwalk that leads out to a
lookout where we were able to watch the Takhanne River drop from a height of 60
meters (or 197 feet). Million Dollar Falls is the endpoint of the Chinook Salmon
upstream spawning run, which occurs in July. The name "Million Dollar Falls" originated with a lavish
US army maintenance camp that was constructed here in the 1940s during the
building of the Haines Road and Haines-to-Fairbanks pipeline, complete with
barracks, officers’ quarters and a 21-toilet bathing room. Rumor spread that
the camp cost a “million dollars” to build, but it was never actually used.
Continuing on, we passed the St. Elias Lake.
Rock Glacier
Soon we were at the trail turnoff to Rock Glacier.
The Rock Glacier Trail was a self-guided trail with interpretive panels providing interesting information on the rock glacier. This was an easy walk for the most part until we came to the rocky upper portion of the trail.
The information about what a rock glacier is as shown on the information board below was quite interesting.
The first portion of the trail was a raised boardwalk that traveled over a marshy area. It then entered a forest of spruce and poplars where numerous glacial streams were seen.
Upon leaving the boardwalk, the trail climbed onto the toe of the rock glacier. From there we had an excellent view of Dezadeash Lake.
Walking was relatively easy on the large flat slabs of rock at the observation area, but when the trail ended at this point, it was possible to continue up the rock glacier (I chose not to do that, but Mel did for a short distance.)
Leaving the summit of Rock Glacier, we made our way back to our truck and camper following the trail.
Another view of Dezadeash Lake.
Kathleen Lake
Our next stop was at Kathleen Lake, which was just a short drive south of Haines Junction. The sparkling Kathleen Lake (Mät’àtäna Män -- meaning something frozen inside the lake) is where crystal waters are backed by the mountains of the Kluane Range.
The road was a little rough driving back to Kathleen Lake.
Kathleen Lake was mostly frozen over.
The Kokanee salmon thrive in Kathleen Lake.
We followed the boardwalk around the lake to the other side.
Leaving Kathleen Lake, we passed by Jarvis River, and more beautiful scenery on our way to the Soldier's Summit Trail.
We came upon a caution sign warning us about the Dall's sheep.
And before we knew it, we did see some up on the mountains.
Soldier's Summit Trail
Our next stop for the day was at the Soldier's Summit Trail. The self-guided trail leads to the site of the 1942 official opening of the Alaska Highway.
The trailhead for Soldier's Summit is just west of the Sheep Mountain (Tachäl Dhäl) Interpretive Center. The path started as a First Nations trail. There are interpretive signs along the scenic trail that describe how the construction of the military supply road connecting the north to the south changed the Yukon forever.
Dall's sheep graze the lower slopes of Sheep Mountain (Tachäl Dhäl) in the spring and fall and can be seen on our near the Soldier's Summit Trail, like we saw them today.
Our truck and camper below the start of the Soldier's Summit Trail.
One of the interpretive panels: "A War Time Road. Fearing a Japanese attack along the Alaska Coast during the Second World War, the United Sates wanted a military supply road connecting Alaska to the south. In 1942, the Yukon's population more than doubled as American troops and civilians poured into the territory. In just eight and a half months, they built a rough road more than 2,400 km (1,500 mi) long, from B.C. to Alaska. It brought momentous social and economic change to the Yukon.
'In about a week's time we expect 6,000 troops here and a whole bunch of supporting civilians.' (U.S. General Hoge to Beresford Alan, Whitehorse Detachment Commander, 1942.)
'We travelled with either dog packs or by sleigh with dog teams [before the highway.]' (Lena Johnson, Kluane First Nation Elder, 2016.)
'My dad asked: "What was that big thing, going around here, and making big dust?"' (Grace Margaret Johnson, Kluane First Nation Elder, 2016.)
This interpretive panel was entitled "Many Faces": "Men and women came from many places to work on or along the highway. They were soldiers from the United States, contractors and civilians from across Canada, and First Nations - many of whom worked as guides, woodcutters and seamstresses. One-third of all the soldiers building the road were African American. Many came from the southern U.S. and had never experienced a cold northern climate. The U.S. Army segregated African American and white soldiers at the time."
The view across Slims River Flats and the massive delta of the Slims River as it empties its load of glacial silt into Kluane Lake.
This plaque says: "The Alaska Highway. The Alcan Military Highway from Dawson Creek, British Columbia to Big Delta, Alaska, was opened here at Soldier's Summit on 20 November 1942. Relying on local Native guides and generally following existing trails, United States military and civilian personnel finished the road in under 10 months. Intended to support the airfields of the Northwest Staging Route, much of the road became part of the Alaska Highway. Its completion in 1943 opened the Northwest to southern exploitation of natural resources, altering Yukon settlement patterns and changing Native ways of life."
We found the Adirondack chairs at the end of the Soldier's Summit Trail, so we sat down and relaxed taking in the marvelous view.
After leaving Soldier's Summit Trail, we drove on to the Destruction Bay pullout where we planned to boondock for the night.
Destruction Bay has a population of 55 and is located on the Alaska Highway on the shore of the Kluane Lake. Destruction Bay was a relay station for truckers during construction of the Alaska Highway. It earned its name when a storm destroyed buildings and materials here.
The worst part of the Alaskan Highway is from from the Yukon/Alaska border to Destruction Bay -- a distance of 136 miles. This section of the highway seems to be always "under construction" since it was first built hastily in 1942.
Our campsite was a serene gorgeous site with the beautiful Kluane Lake and mountains for our viewing.
We had leftover pork chops and salads for dinner and we listened to the truck traffic go by until we went to bed.
As we shut our eyes, the roar of traffic seemed to dissipate. Sweet dreams!
Shirley & Mel
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